By Alicia Schneider ( Retired Educator , traveller ) Guest post
I am not a food critic, nor a chef. I’m a 68-year-old retired school teacher from Lübeck, Germany, who never truly imagined she’d one day find herself under a flurry of pink sakura petals, wandering through Japan with three of her closest friends from the old teaching days. We had promised ourselves, years ago, over many cups of black tea and stollen, that when retirement came, we would travel the world together. Japan, during the cherry blossom season, was always at the top of our list.
Our journey has taken us from the calm gardens of Kyoto to the whispering temples of Nara. But it was in Fukuoka, on the island of Kyushu, that I encountered something that moved me on a deeper level than I expected: a bowl of steaming, cloudy Tonkotsu Ramen.
Fukuoka: Where the Steam Rises Like a Prayer
We arrived in Fukuoka in early April. The cherry blossoms were in full bloom, their delicate petals carpeting temple steps and riverbanks. The air was cool, fresh, and faintly salty, owing to the city’s proximity to the sea. I had heard of Hakata Ramen before (Hakata being a central district in Fukuoka), but I had always associated ramen with quick meals and fast trains. I was unprepared for the spiritual experience that would follow.
Our tour package included a cooking class with a local chef in Fukuoka. The class took place in a small but spotless kitchen studio, tucked behind a ramen shop that had been operating for over three generations. Our instructor, Ms. Emi, greeted us with a soft smile and a quiet reverence for the craft. She spoke in a gentle English, and occasionally, our translator filled in the gaps.
“This is not fast food,” she told us. “This is soul food. This is time food.”
Tonkotsu: The Essence of Patience
Tonkotsu means “pork bones”, and that is exactly what gives the broth its rich, cloudy-white appearance and deeply savory flavor. Ms. Emi explained that in post-war Japan, particularly in Fukuoka, pork bones were cheap and available. Out of necessity and ingenuity, people began boiling them for hours until they released their marrow and transformed water into something thick, comforting, and almost holy.
I listened, notebook in hand, trying to absorb everything. Below is the recipe she shared with us — not restaurant-level complexity, but simplified for those who wish to try it at home.
Tonkotsu Ramen Recipe (Simplified Version from Fukuoka Cooking Class)
Serves: 4
Cooking Time: 10–12 hours (for broth), 20 minutes (assembly)
Ingredients
For the Broth
- 2 kg pork bones (neck and leg bones preferred)
- 1 onion (halved)
- 1 head of garlic (halved horizontally)
- 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger (sliced)
- 2 spring onions (whole)
- Water (enough to keep bones submerged)
For the Tare (Seasoning Sauce)
- 100 ml soy sauce
- 50 ml mirin
- 1 tbsp sake
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 clove garlic (grated)
- 1 tsp ginger (grated)
For the Toppings
- Soft-boiled eggs (marinated in soy sauce and mirin for 4 hours)
- Chashu pork slices (if possible, from rolled pork belly)
- Spring onions (sliced thin)
- Nori sheets
- Kikurage mushrooms (wood ear, soaked and sliced)
Noodles
- Thin, straight ramen noodles (available at Asian supermarkets)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Clean the Pork Bones
Boil the pork bones in a large pot of water for 10 minutes. This removes blood and impurities. Drain and rinse the bones thoroughly under cold water.
Step 2: Make the Broth
In a large stockpot, place the cleaned bones, onion, garlic, ginger, and spring onions. Fill with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower to a strong simmer. Let this cook uncovered for 10–12 hours, topping up water as needed.
Ms. Emi said, “You must boil it without fear.” The rolling boil helps emulsify the fat and marrow, giving Tonkotsu its signature creamy look.
Step 3: Prepare the Tare
While the broth simmers, combine all tare ingredients in a saucepan. Simmer for 5 minutes. Set aside.
Step 4: Soft-Boiled Eggs
Boil eggs for 6.5 minutes, then place into an ice bath. Peel and marinate in a mix of soy sauce and mirin (2:1 ratio) for 4 hours.
Step 5: Assemble
Strain the broth through a fine sieve. Bring it to a boil again before serving.
In a bowl:
- Add 1–2 tablespoons of tare.
- Pour in hot Tonkotsu broth.
- Add cooked noodles.
- Top with chashu, egg, spring onions, mushrooms, and a piece of nori.
A Bowl of Memory and Steam
We sat around the counter of the ramen shop, slurping quietly as the sun began to set behind the tiled rooftops of Fukuoka. My three companions — Eva, Ruth, and Anneliese — were too busy savoring the experience to speak. I found myself misty-eyed, not from the steam, but from something older: the realization that even in retirement, even in faraway lands, one can still be a student — and life, the most patient of teachers.
That night, beneath the lanterns and soft petals, I knew I would never look at a bowl of soup the same way again. It was not just pork and noodles. It was a history, a place, and a culture — boiled for hours and offered with quiet dignity.
If you ever find yourself in Fukuoka, do not rush. Sit, watch, and wait for the steam. That’s where the soul lives.
