By Rakesh Ahuja (Food vlogger Traveller ) Guest Post
I am an Indian traveller, a food blogger by passion, who recently spent almost a month exploring the vibrant, diverse and utterly delicious world of Iranian cuisine. The trip was not just a vacation — it was a full immersion into Persian culture, history, and food. And among the many dishes that touched my soul, Fesenjan stood out as one of the most unique and memorable. Today, I want to share my journey across Iran, the many flavours I encountered, and the special Fesenjan recipe I learnt from my host’s ammi (mother).
My Journey Across Iran: A Land of Thousand Flavours
When I first landed in Tehran, I was greeted by a city that beautifully blended modern life with ancient traditions. The skyline dotted with snow-capped Alborz mountains, bustling bazaars, and warm, welcoming people immediately made me feel at home.
Tehran: The Beginning
In Tehran, my mornings started with Sangak — a large flatbread baked on hot stones — served with fresh herbs (sabzi), feta cheese, walnuts, and honey. For lunch, I often had Chelo Kebab, a national dish consisting of saffron rice and juicy kebabs, served with grilled tomatoes and a raw egg yolk. In the evenings, sipping on hot Persian tea while munching on Gaz (Persian nougat) became a lovely routine.
Isfahan: The Cultural Heart
From Tehran, I travelled to Isfahan — often called “half the world” by locals due to its immense beauty. The stunning Naqsh-e Jahan Square took my breath away. In Isfahan, I tasted Beryani — quite different from our Indian biryani — made with minced lamb, fried in a pan, and served on soft naan. I also relished Khoresh-e Bademjan (eggplant stew), and the sweet Faloodeh Shirazi, which was extremely refreshing.
Shiraz: The Garden City
Next, I visited Shiraz, famous for its poetry, gardens, and wines of ancient times (now forbidden, of course). I visited the tomb of Hafez and spent evenings in Eram Garden. The local delicacy Kalam Polo (cabbage rice with meatballs) was surprisingly delicious, full of herbs and spices that reminded me of our pulao, yet completely different in taste. I also enjoyed Shirazi Salad made with cucumber, tomato, onion, and lemon juice — simple yet so refreshing!
Yazd: The Desert Jewel
Then came Yazd — a desert city with ancient wind towers, narrow lanes, and Zoroastrian fire temples. Here I tasted Shooli (a kind of hearty spinach soup) and Baklava Yazdi, a unique take on the famous Middle Eastern sweet. The people of Yazd were especially kind and warm — I was often invited into homes for chai and homemade sweets.
Rasht: The Gateway to Fesenjan
Finally, I reached Rasht, a lush, green city near the Caspian Sea, known for its distinct cuisine. Here, I stayed with a local family, and this is where my love story with Fesenjan began.
The Discovery of Fesenjan
I was lucky that my hosts treated me like one of their own. The lady of the house — I fondly called her ammi — was a fantastic cook. She introduced me to this rich, dark, and slightly tangy stew called Fesenjan. One whiff of it simmering on the stove, and I was hooked.
Ammi explained to me that Fesenjan is a traditional Persian stew made with ground walnuts and pomegranate molasses, usually cooked with chicken or duck. It is sweet, sour, rich, and nutty — all in one bite. She said, “Beta, yeh hamara shahi khana hai” — this is our royal food. yes she speaks a little hindi/urdu as well! long live Bollywood!
After watching her cook, I learnt the entire recipe, which I am now sharing with you.
The Recipe of Fesenjan — As Taught by Ammi
Ingredients (for 4 people)
- 500 grams chicken (preferably bone-in pieces)
- 250 grams walnuts (akhrot)
- 1 large onion (finely chopped)
- 3-4 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (anar ka syrup)
- 1-2 tablespoons sugar (optional, to balance sourness)
- 1 teaspoon turmeric powder (haldi)
- Salt to taste
- Black pepper to taste
- 2 tablespoons oil (vegetable or olive oil)
- Water (as required)
Optional spices (Ammi’s secret touch)
- ½ teaspoon cinnamon powder (dalchini)
- ¼ teaspoon cardamom powder (elaichi)
Step-by-step preparation
1. Roast and grind the walnuts
Ammi first took raw walnuts and lightly roasted them in a dry pan on low flame, just until fragrant. Be careful not to burn them.
After cooling, she ground them into a fine paste using a small grinder. She told me, “Beta, jitna zyada fine paste, utna zyada creamy stew banega.”
2. Fry the onions
In a deep heavy-bottomed pot (she used a cast iron pot), heat oil and sauté the chopped onions on medium flame until golden brown.
3. Add spices and chicken
Add turmeric, salt, and pepper to the onions, and then add the chicken pieces. Fry for a few minutes until the chicken is sealed and changes colour.
4. Add the walnut paste
Pour in the ground walnut paste and stir well, coating all the chicken pieces.
5. Add water
Add about 2-3 cups of water — enough to cover the chicken. Bring it to a boil.
6. Slow cooking is the key
Lower the flame, cover partially, and let it simmer for at least 1.5 to 2 hours. The stew should slowly thicken and turn dark brown. Ammi said, “Beta, jaldi ka kaam shaitan ka” — slow cooking brings out the flavour.
7. Add pomegranate molasses
Once the oil begins to separate and the stew has thickened, stir in the pomegranate molasses. Taste and adjust sugar if it’s too sour for your liking.
8. Add the secret spices
Finally, add cinnamon and cardamom for that royal aroma. Simmer for another 10 minutes.
9. Serve
Serve hot with Persian saffron rice (Chelow) or even plain basmati rice works beautifully.
My First Taste
When I had my first spoonful of Fesenjan, it was like nothing I had tasted before. The rich nuttiness of walnuts, the sweet-sour kick from the pomegranate, the tender chicken — wah, kamaal ka taste tha! It was a dish that spoke of Persia’s royal kitchens, ancient trade routes, and love for bold, balanced flavours.
Reflections on Iranian Food
During my month-long stay, I realised that Iranian food is vastly different from what most people think. It’s not heavily spiced like our Indian food but relies on herbs, dried fruits, nuts, and a perfect balance of sweet, sour, and savoury.
Unlike our masalas, Iranian cooking uses saffron, dried lime (limoo amani), barberries (zereshk), and loads of fresh herbs like parsley, dill, mint, and coriander.
Their hospitality is unmatched. Everywhere I went, I was greeted with chai, fruits, and sweets. Sharing meals is a big part of their culture, just like in India.
