By Margaret Ford ( Retired Schhol teacher , traveller ) Guest post
As a retired schoolteacher from Austin, Texas, I never imagined that a spontaneous trip to Egypt in my golden years would open my eyes — and tastebuds — to a whole new world. It all began with a brochure I received in the mail: “Explore Ancient Egypt: A Senior’s Journey Through Time.” I had always loved reading about the pharaohs and pyramids in history class, but never had the chance to see them in person. So at 72, I packed a sunhat, a good pair of walking shoes, and a journal, and I set out for what would become one of the most enriching adventures of my life.
But what I didn’t expect was to fall in love with a dish — a humble, ancient bowl of beans called Ful Medames.
A Land of Wonders and Warmth
My journey began in Cairo, a bustling city where modern life coexists with ancient wonders. The traffic was chaotic, the air buzzing with honking horns, and the Nile glistened in the morning sun like a silver ribbon through the desert. Our tour guide, a friendly young man named Hossam, welcomed our group with a broad smile and a sense of humor that instantly set us at ease.
We visited the Pyramids of Giza on our first day. Standing at the base of the Great Pyramid, I felt like a speck of dust in the grand scheme of history. Later, we went to the Egyptian Museum, where I stood transfixed before the golden mask of Tutankhamun. But as awe-inspiring as the sights were, what truly began to capture my heart was the food.
A Culinary Introduction to Egypt
Our first group dinner was at a local family-run restaurant in Giza. The table was filled with dishes I could barely pronounce: koshari, molokhia, mahshi, and taameya (Egypt’s version of falafel made with fava beans). But one dish stood out — a small clay bowl filled with mashed fava beans, garnished with olive oil, lemon, cumin, and a hard-boiled egg on the side. Hossam called it Ful Medames.
“It’s our national dish,” he explained, scooping up the beans with a piece of baladi bread. “We eat it for breakfast, lunch, even dinner.”
I hesitated at first. Beans for breakfast? But one bite changed everything. The flavor was deep and earthy, with just the right hint of garlic and lemon. It was hearty, comforting, and oddly familiar — like a warm hug in food form. From that day on, I looked for ful wherever we went.
Traveling Across Egypt — One Meal at a Time
Over the next ten days, our tour took us from the great cities to the quiet corners of the Nile Valley. In Luxor, we sailed on a felucca at sunset, watching the temples of Karnak and Hatshepsut glow amber in the dying light. In Aswan, I met a Nubian woman who served us spiced lentil soup and grilled tilapia from the river, while we sat cross-legged on carpets under a thatched roof.
At every stop, Hossam made sure we tried something new. In Alexandria, we had fried seafood so fresh it seemed to leap off the plate. In Siwa Oasis, I tasted date-filled pastries and camel stew — not something I thought I’d ever eat, but surprisingly tender and flavorful. But every morning, without fail, there was ful.
By the time we returned to Cairo, I had fallen not just for the beauty of Egypt, but for its people and their cuisine. On our last day, I told Hossam that I wished I could make ful back home in Texas. He grinned and said, “Come, I will teach you.”
A Lesson in Ful — Egyptian Style
We went to a spice shop in downtown Cairo where the air smelled of cumin, coriander, and roasted sesame. Then to a small open market, where Hossam showed me the proper kind of dried fava beans — small and brown, not the large pale ones we find in most American stores. He gave me a handwritten recipe, explaining each step like a teacher with a favorite student.
“Just remember,” he said, “ful is simple, but it needs love and time.”
I scribbled every detail into my travel journal, tucked the beans into my suitcase, and promised to try the dish once I was back home.
Cooking Ful in Texas — A Taste of Egypt at Home
It was a rainy Sunday in Austin when I decided to try cooking ful for the first time. I had just returned from Egypt the week before and was already missing the call to prayer that echoed across the cities and the friendly greetings of “Ahlan wa sahlan!” from strangers.
I pulled out the bag of beans, the recipe, and my journal. It felt like a ceremony — recreating a piece of the journey, one step at a time.
My Ful Medames Recipe — As Taught by Hossam
Ingredients:
- 1 cup dried small fava beans (not split)
- 4 cups water (for soaking)
- 3 cups water (for cooking)
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- Salt to taste
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- Juice of half a lemon
- Optional toppings: chopped parsley, diced tomato, hard-boiled egg, tahini, chili flakes, sliced onions, or extra lemon wedges
Instructions:
- Soak the Beans
Rinse the fava beans thoroughly and soak them overnight in water. This helps soften them and makes cooking easier. - Cook the Beans
Drain the soaked beans and place them in a heavy-bottomed pot. Add fresh water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until the beans are soft and breaking apart. - Mash Lightly
Use a potato masher or the back of a spoon to mash the beans roughly. You want some texture — not completely smooth like hummus. - Season the Ful
Add salt, cumin, garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice. Stir well and simmer for another 10 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. - Serve Warm
Ladle into bowls and top with your choice of garnishes. Serve with warm pita or flatbread.
A Dish that Brings Back the Nile
That first bite transported me straight back to Cairo. The warmth, the texture, the simple complexity of flavors — it all came rushing back. I closed my eyes and felt the breeze from the Nile, the sounds of the bazaar, the laughter of our tour group, and Hossam’s voice explaining how ful has been eaten in Egypt since the time of the pharaohs.
Now, whenever I make ful at home, I serve it with warm flatbread and a strong cup of coffee, and I tell my grandchildren about the pyramids, the golden tombs, and how their grandmother ate beans for breakfast like a true Egyptian.
Final Thoughts: Food is a Bridge
As someone who’s lived through decades of history, taught children about the world, and watched it grow and change, I’ve come to believe this: food is one of the most powerful bridges between cultures. It carries stories, memories, and identities across borders and generations.
Ful Medames may be simple, but it’s a dish steeped in resilience and tradition. It taught me that sometimes, the most profound parts of travel aren’t the grand monuments — they’re in the quiet moments, like sharing a bowl of beans with someone who welcomes you like family.
So if you ever find yourself in Egypt — or even in your kitchen on a rainy day — take a chance on ful. It just might change your heart, the way it changed mine.