By James Houston ( Steak Lover, Grill master) Guest Post
I’ve always been a steak man. Ribeyes sizzling on a hot Weber grill, marbled New York strips kissed with mesquite smoke, thick sirloins seared rare—those are my happy places. For years, I considered grilling not just a cooking method, but a way of life. Braising? That was for pot roast. Stews? Great for winter Sundays, but not the real celebration of meat that grilling offered.
That all changed when I visited Milan.
My son, who moved to Italy a few years ago to work in architecture, insisted that I come visit him and “experience Italian food beyond pizza and pasta.” I rolled my eyes. Italian food? I like a good lasagna, and I won’t turn down spaghetti and meatballs, but I wasn’t flying 4,000 miles to eat carbs. I wanted meat—real, American-sized meat.
But as I’d soon learn, Italy does meat their own way—and one dish, Ossobuco alla Milanese, turned my carnivorous worldview upside down.
First Impressions of Milan (and Its Food)
Milan is sleek. There’s a quiet elegance to the city—less chaotic than Rome, more refined than Florence. The architecture is a fusion of old-world charm and modern polish. But it was the food that really began to change me.
We started with aperitivo—small bites and cocktails before dinner. Little plates of olives, cured meats, cheese, and spritzes. I liked it, but I was still waiting for that big, juicy steak moment.
Over the next few days, my son dragged me to trattorias and osterias where the menu was in Italian and the portions were… delicate. I’ll admit, I missed my 16-ounce T-bones.
Then came Ossobuco.
The Day I Met Ossobuco
We were at a traditional Milanese restaurant tucked into a quiet corner of the Brera district. The place was cozy—no tourists, just locals murmuring over glasses of wine. The waiter suggested the house special: Ossobuco alla Milanese. My son nodded eagerly. I, reluctantly, agreed.
What came out didn’t look like much at first. A thick slice of veal shank, bone-in, nestled in a rich golden sauce. It sat on a bed of creamy risotto tinted yellow from saffron. No grill marks. No crusty char. No steak knife. I was skeptical.
But then I tasted it.
The meat was tender—fall-apart tender, like it had been whispering to the bone for hours. The marrow in the center? Liquid gold. The sauce was savory, slightly citrusy, and impossibly rich. And the saffron risotto? A creamy, luxurious canvas that elevated everything around it.
For the first time in my life, I understood the magic of braising.
What Is Ossobuco?
Ossobuco literally means “bone with a hole” in Italian, referring to the marrow-filled cross-cut of veal shank used in the dish. It’s a humble cut, not the kind you throw on a grill and hope for the best. But when treated with patience and care, it transforms into something transcendent.
The traditional Ossobuco alla Milanese is slowly braised with onion, carrot, celery, white wine, and broth until the meat is meltingly tender. It’s finished with a gremolata—a zesty sprinkle of lemon zest, garlic, and parsley—that brightens up the rich flavors. It’s typically served with saffron risotto or polenta, depending on the region.
This isn’t fast food. It’s slow food—each bite telling the story of centuries-old Milanese tradition.
How It Changed My Perspective
Before Milan, I thought of meat as something to be conquered—grilled, seared, seasoned aggressively, and consumed with gusto. Ossobuco taught me to slow down, to appreciate the transformation that happens not over minutes, but hours.
It also reminded me that flavor can be gentle and still powerful. That richness doesn’t have to come from fat alone, but from bone, stock, aromatics, and time.
I returned home with more than just souvenirs. I came back with a deep respect for Italian cooking—and a new appreciation for the art of braising.
And now, I make Ossobuco at home.
Ossobuco alla Milanese Recipe (From One Grill Guy to Another)
This recipe is adapted for American kitchens. It’s as close as I can get to the magic I tasted in Milan.
Ingredients:
For the Ossobuco:
- 4 veal shanks (about 1.5 inches thick), tied with kitchen twine
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- ½ cup all-purpose flour, for dredging
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 2 tbsp butter
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 1 carrot, finely chopped
- 1 celery stalk, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 2 cups beef or veal stock
- 1 cup crushed tomatoes (optional, for tomato-based variation)
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 sprig fresh rosemary or thyme
- Zest of 1 lemon
For the Gremolata:
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
- 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
For the Risotto alla Milanese:
- 1 cup Arborio rice
- ½ small onion, finely chopped
- 3 tbsp butter
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 3 cups hot chicken or veal stock
- 1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 2 tbsp warm water
- ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Step-by-Step Instructions:
1. Prepare the Veal Shanks
- Pat the shanks dry and season generously with salt and pepper.
- Lightly dredge in flour, shaking off the excess.
2. Brown the Meat
- In a large Dutch oven or deep pan, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat.
- Sear the veal shanks until golden brown on all sides (about 3–4 minutes per side).
- Remove and set aside.
3. Sauté the Aromatics
- In the same pan, add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook until soft (5–7 minutes).
- Add garlic and cook for another minute.
4. Deglaze the Pan
- Pour in the white wine, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
- Let it simmer and reduce by half (3–5 minutes).
5. Add Liquids and Braise
- Return the veal to the pan. Add stock (and tomatoes if using), bay leaves, and herbs.
- The liquid should come about ¾ up the side of the meat.
- Bring to a simmer, then cover and transfer to a 325°F (160°C) oven.
- Braise for 2 to 2½ hours, until the meat is fork-tender.
6. Make the Gremolata
- Mix the lemon zest, minced garlic, and chopped parsley in a small bowl.
7. Cook the Risotto
- In a saucepan, melt 1 tbsp butter and sauté the onion until translucent.
- Add rice and stir until slightly toasted.
- Add white wine and cook until absorbed.
- Gradually add stock one ladle at a time, stirring constantly.
- After about 15 minutes, stir in the saffron and soaking liquid.
- Finish with remaining butter and grated cheese.
8. Serve
- Place a veal shank on a bed of saffron risotto.
- Spoon some braising liquid over the top.
- Sprinkle with gremolata.
Final Thoughts
Back home in the States, I still grill. But now, I also braise. Ossobuco opened up a whole new side of cooking for me—one rooted in patience, subtlety, and soul.
If you’re like me—a red-blooded steak enthusiast—do yourself a favor. Give this dish a try. You might just find that the most powerful meat experiences don’t come from fire, but from time.
And hey, you don’t need to fly to Milan to get that first bite. You just need a Dutch oven, a few humble ingredients, and a willingness to let go of the grill—for one meal, at least.